Posts Tagged With: guided Ireland tours

Tracing the Past in Ireland October 20-31, 2015

If you enjoy unique, artist and scholar led travel experiences and learning about the culture, art and people of a place, then join us for some amazing travel experiences!

Here is a glimpse of what to expect in October: (see http://www.riverrunarts.com for a downloadable pdf brochure)

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Join us for a unique exploration of enchanting Ireland as we delve into the texture of Irish culture from prehistory to present. We begin in Dublin, which offers a look at hundreds of years of history through its architecture, culture and museums. We will visit the National Museum, which boasts pottery from the Stone Age, gold neck collars, called “torcs” made by the Celts, and elaborate metalworking created during monastic times. The Viking longship, and influence of their presence in Dublin, provides an in-depth visual history of this culture in Ireland.  We will see the rich and fascinating history in the landscape by visiting stone circles, ring forts, medieval churches, and ancient solar observatories. Woven into the story of the past will be activities with Irish artists, actors, guides and musicians.

In conjunction with this tour, a genealogy component is being offered by Dave Miller. Dave teaches a course on finding your Irish roots, and will be offering his consulting services to those in his class, with actual hands-on time in Dublin (and Belfast for the October trip) to research further. The schedule is planned so that those working with Dave will have time to research with him, and those not involved will be engaged in a variety of other tour activities, including a trip to the World Heritage Site of Newgrange, the 5,000 year old structure aligned to dawn on the winter solstice.

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The tour will begin in Dublin, with visits to the National Gallery, Trinity College, featuring the Book of Kells, and the National Museum, which will provide a visual feast of history. The hop-on, hop-off bus will take us anywhere we like in the city centre, with the option to view from the bus or hop off and see things up close. Guided tours will be included at most sites, as well as walking tours where historic areas are described, including the Irish Rebellion, followed by a visit to Kilmanhaim Jail. Evening music and literary pub events will top off the days.

Next the group will head to Belfast and northern Ireland, where those working with Dave on genealogy will spend several days investigating their heritage at  research sites in Belfast, such as PRONI ( Public Records Office of Northern Ireland). and Ulster Historical Foundation .

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Those not involved in research will be treated to day trips along the northern coast, including the spectacular Giant’s Causeway, with visits to castles, monastic sites, mansions, mountains and waterfalls, all providing a variety and breadth to Irish history and cultural insights.  Those researching will also come along on some of these outings. In Belfast we will also take the hop-on, hop-off bus tour, so that people can see sites of special interest, sample a café, or take in some shopping or a museum. Our day trips will be with local guides, who promise to offer delightful stories and an “inside” look at the region’s history, culture and secrets, all told with a dose of Irish wit.

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One highlight while in Belfast will be a personalized tour of the Titanic Experience, where we will see the construction of this iconic ship, learn its history and view remains of the wreckage..

The city of Belfast and northern Ireland has had a turbulent past, but thankfully now is a peaceful time. However, the political and religious climate of the “troubles” is still visible in the murals painted during those times. We will be able to see the murals, and learn more about the history with a guided tour, ending with a special highlight of viewing the “Peace Wall”.

The Antrim Coast is stunning, and we will venture out to see amazing scenery,and archaeological sites, such as standing stones and castle ruins. A stop at the Bushmills Distillery will give you a sampling if Irish whiskey as we wind our way back to the city!

We will visit Dunluce Castle, and learn about the fortifications and villages that surrounded places such as these.

Each day our goal is to provide a perfect blend of activities, free time, and a pace that allows for an enjoyable trip. Most activities are not strenuous, but there will be walking as we visit sites, and for those interested, opportunities to hike through beautiful glens and scenery.

Your tour leader and guide:    Your tour will be led by scholar, artist and teacher Joan Molloy Slack, who will guide the tour and interpret the range of fascinating things we will see and experience, from rock art to Irish culture and contemporary art. She has been organizing and leading tours for 15 years to Ireland, Scotland, France, and Mexico as well as within the United States. She is a teacher and college instructor, a ceramic and fiber artist, (www.riverrunarts.com), and holds a Master’s Degree in Prehistoric Ceramics and Visual Art. Joan will bring her knowledge of art history, experience as a museum curator, and her passion for art and history to our daily excursions. As a firm believer in sustainable tourism, she also seeks out the best local guides, from historians to storytellers, so that we may hear and see through their eyes as well.  She is a dual citizen, Irish/American, and her family comes from a small town called Rathcabbin in Tipperary.  You can read about her travels and research in Ireland at www.authentictravelandtours.com

“I began tour guiding 15 years ago through teaching college classes combined with tours in Art History to Mexico and Ireland. I also led independent travel experiences that included Ireland as well as Scotland and France, after researching prehistoric art and ceramics and attaining my Master’s Degree. My fascination with the people who were the first recorded artists, as seen in the cave paintings in France, or on ancient pottery designs or rock art carvings, continues to drive my desire to learn, explore and share my passion for what I have learned with fellow travelers. As I researched and traveled, I found that the best way to delve deeply was to seek out local guides, artists and historians who helped bring the stories of places alive. This never fails to create a rich, meaningful and life changing experience. Layers of story, place names, deeper meanings and human connection create a rich, multi-layered tour with memories that remain long after the travel is over.  I bring this element to all of my tours, and it makes all the difference in what feels authentic versus an overview, or a superficial tour. As an artist, teacher, art historian, scholar and adventurer, I am so looking forward to sharing amazing people, places and experiences with you!”

 Dave Miller is serving as Genealogist Consultant on this trip and will assist and advise those who have been working with him prior to the trip with their Irish family research. Dave has researched family history for over 30 years, including his own Irish ancestors. He is especially experienced in genealogy research in the Midwest and knowledgeable in American and Irish records. He has published articles on family history and is a speaker on various genealogy topics. Dave holds a Master’s Degree from the University of Illinois Springfield and has just completed a Professional Learning Certificate in Genealogical Studies in Irish records from the National Institute for Genealogical Studies in Toronto, Ontario.  In addition, Dave has also been an on-air meteorologist in television and radio for over 30 years.

“I really enjoy helping individuals in researching their ancestors. My experience and educational background can give them the guidance in finding those hard to locate ancestors including their Irish family.” 

Cost: This trip base price is $2129, which includes the group activities in the itinerary. Those choosing to do research will not be taking extra day trips, so their cost is $2129 plus the cost of Dave Miller’s class. Those NOT involved in the research component can expect a fully scheduled tour with extra full day trips for a total of $2252. A deposit of $500 payable by check is required with your registration. Those interested in genealogy class with Dave Miller must make arrangements and payments directly with him. His fee of $350 includes classes prior to trip, assistance and transportation during research days in Dublin and Belfast and availability for research questions at specific times during the trip. Contact Dave at davewiroots@gmail.com      www.findthefamily.com

Our Vision: Each of our tours is unique and custom-designed, with a balanced mix of traveling, sightseeing, cultural encounters, and free time. We limit our tours to fewer than 20 people both for the freedom, flexibility, and camaraderie that small groups engender, and also so that guests may enjoy a more personal and authentic travel experience. We’ll show you the highlights and the unexpected. We usually spend more time in one place so that you won’t be constantly moving, and have time to get to know it. As small group your Tour Leader will have more time to spend with you and more time to share the personal insights that can add so much to your experience. This helps make your trip genuinely special and different from conventional tours, large buses, and too little time in one place.

What is included in the price:

-Lodging for tour dates. Lodging will be at Cassidy’s Hotel in Dublin (www.cassidyshotel.com) and the Ramada Encore Hotel in Belfast (www.encorebelfast.co.uk) , both of which are located in the city centre. Price is based upon 2 sharing a room with your own bed if preferred. 3 people can share a room with 3 beds if available. There is an additional charge for single room- please contact us about the extra cost. Single rooms may have limited availability and are on a first-come, first served basis.

-All ground transportation, including buses, taxis, train and coaches in Ireland after arrival at hotel and until last day of trip

-Full Irish breakfast every day with tea and coffee

-All tour guides and admission fees, walking tours, bus passes and special events in itinerary

-guided presentations at site visits, and gratuities

-customized special events, tours, presentations and/or performances

Price does not include:

-lunches and evening meals (we have opted not to make meals all-inclusive due to personal preferences and dietary issues. This also gives people the freedom to explore and sample a variety of restaurants and cafes)

-travel to and from Ireland and any travel outside of tour dates. The tour begins and ends at the Dublin hotel: transportation by bus or taxi to/from airport is not included

-insurance for health, luggage, transportation, cancellation/interruption. We strongly advise that you purchase travel insurance

-any extra or “optional” sightseeing, tours, taxis, or tickets, such as the evening pub tours

Please contact us at 715-277-4224 or 715-550-0858 with any questions or e-mail joanslack@wildblue.net. If you are interested in joining us on the tour, fill out the attached forms and mail with your deposit of $500 as soon as possible to Joan Slack, P.O. Box 95, McNaughton, WI  54543. Space is limited, as we prefer to keep the numbers smaller rather than larger, and registrations on a first come-first served basis. There will be a waiting list once the trip is full.  Balance is due August 15, 2015. A day to day itinerary will be mailed to you, along with travel notes and information about sites we will visit, closer to the tour dates.

Itinerary

(People choosing to do genealogical research have been allotted time for this, while those not involved have a full tour schedule)

Tuesday, 10/20   Arrive in Dublin, orientation and walking tour of city centre, guided tour of Trinity College and view Book of Kells exhibit

Wednesday, 10/21   Hop-on bus tour, with guided tours of National Museum, Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship, Christchurch Cathedral and other Dublin sites   Afternoon time for researchers

Thursday 10/22     Rebellion walking tour, Kilmainham Jail tour, and choice of Dublin sites via hop-on bus tour.  Afternoon time for researchers. Optional musical pub tour in evening.

Friday, 10/23   Visit Newgrange and the Boyne Valley. (Full day for researchers)

Saturday, 10/24     Travel to Belfast via train. Group tour of Belfast murals and Peace Wall

Sunday, 10/25   Visit to Ulster Museum and other points of interest (morning research time) Group tour to Titanic exhibit with walking tour

Monday, 10/26   Trip to Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Bushmill’s Distillery (research day)

Tuesday 10/27   Day trip to regional sites of interest, research day for others

Monday, 10/28   Free time to explore Belfast

Tuesday 10/29  and Wednesday 10/30    Return to Dublin Time to explore, time for researchers to finish. Optional literary pub tour in evening. Options include: Pat Liddy walking tour, National Art Gallery, Writer’s Museum, Hugh lane Gallery, Photography Museum, Dublin Castle, St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral, Botanic Gardens, Chester Beatty Library, Guinness Brewery, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Douglas Hyde Modern Art Museum, Natural History Museum, as well as all of the shops with contemporary art, woven goods, sweaters and crafts. A half-day trip to Malahide Castle and the eastern coast near Dublin will also be an option.   Farewell dinner

Thursday 10/31   Depart in morning  PLEASE NOTE: We are offering a tour to the west coast and “Wild Atlantic Way” just prior to this trip from October 8-15th, a great way to see more of Ireland. See details at www.authentictravelandtours.com or www.riverrunarts.com

Refund Policy

All cancellations must be in writing, and received before the deadlines listed below.  The following penalties may apply: Up to $100 charge plus any unrecoverable deposits, any unrecoverable payments to hotels, tour operators or transportation providers, up to August 15, 2015.  After August 15, 2015 – no refund will be allowed. The tour cost is per person based on currency valuations as of January, 2015. We will do everything possible to maintain costs and itinerary, but they are subject to change due to circumstances beyond our control or large fluctuations in currency values. The itinerary may be adjusted due to weather or provider conditions at our discretion.

 

Comments from past tour participants:

“My travel experience with Joan leading the group was above and beyond my expectation. Joan’s research into so many areas of interest about the sites and folklore made the trip stimulating and insightful without being overloaded. She is a seasoned guide with great “in country” connections and a sincere love of the land she travels. I highly recommend Joan Slack as a tour guide. You will have a wonderful, memorable time. I did.”      J.H.

“Joan organizes her trips like she creates her art: beautiful, practical, and full of meaning. I’d never been on a group trip before.  Joan’s voyage to Orkney in Scotland was a joy, every day. It’s one of the very best adventures of my life.”   C. P.

“If you want dependability combined with unique experiences, attention to details and wonderful connections, this is a great tour to take. Each day has been planned for a balance of activities, a good pace and plenty of enjoyment. Joan’s background and knowledge really makes for a deeper understanding of everything we see.” K.M.W.

“If you have never been on a small group tour, go with Joan. If you have been with someone else, go again with Joan. Her planning, arrangements, and site selections are perfect! Joan makes sure you will meet warm, friendly and local people from all walks of life with talents to share. I still have a Bridget’s Cross, made by Joe from our trip, hanging by my door. Happy travels!” A.H.

We hope you will join us, and please feel free to contact us with any questions. Come see what’s around the bend!

 

                                                       

 

 

 

 

 

 

To register please fill out the following information: Tour dates: ____________________

Tour price:___________________  Full tour ____  I will be researching with Dave_______

 

Name:______________________________________________Birthdate:_____________

Address:____________________________          E-mail address:_____________________

_____________________________________________

Home Telephone #:_____________________Cell phone#:__________________________

Room preference:  Single Double Triple   Roommate(s) preference:____________________

Emergency contact: Name, relationship, phone, e-mail address:

Please list any food allergies or other health concerns.  Also, please list prescription medications you are using in case of an emergency. (You may use a separate sheet of paper)

WAIVER OF RESPONSIBILITY

The Tour Leader (hereafter referred to as “TL”), Joan Slack, gives notice that all

arrangements made by her as agent upon the express conditions that she shall not be responsible for any damage, injury, loss, accident, delay or irregularity which may be occasioned either by reason of any defect of vehicle, or through the acts of default of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger, or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour, or otherwise in connection therewith, nor does she accept responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delays or other changes in means of transportation or other services, due to sickness, weather, strikes, or other causes. The right is reserved to make such alterations, deletions, additions, or modifications in the itinerary, program, or accommodations as may be found necessary by the TL. While every effort is made to assure safety, the TL, and agents of the TL will not be acting in a supervisory capacity during the tour and accordingly do not accept responsibility for the activities or safety of participants.  In addition, TL shall bear no responsibility for medical or other expenses resulting from illness, injury, or accident which occurs on the tour. Participants are encouraged to be adequately insured, both for health and travel. No illegal drugs or firearms are permitted. Participants are expected not to deviate from the established itinerary without prior approval from TL. If for any reason a participant must leave the tour before completion, no refunds will be allowed. TL reserves the right to ask a participant to leave the tour due to behavior that may endanger the safety of the group.

My signature certifies that I have read the “Waiver of Responsibility” and that I agree to the

conditions thereof.

______________________________                     ___________________

Name                                                                           Date

For more information and taste of the tour:

National Museum of Ireland     www.museum.ie

National Gallery of Ireland  http://www.nationalgallery.ie/

Kilmainham Jail   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilmainham_Gaol

Trinity College and The Book of Kells exhibit   http://www.tcd.ie/Library/bookofkells/

Newgrange, prehistoric World Heritage Site  http://www.worldheritageireland.ie/bru-na-boinne/built-heritage/newgrange/

Information on Christchurch Cathedral   www.sacred-destinations.com/ireland/dublin-christ-church-cathedral

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl   http://www.dublinpubcrawl.com/index.htm

Traditional Irish Music Pub Crawl  http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland/dublin/activities/history-culture/dublin-traditional-irish-music-pub-crawl

Over the Top Tours  See the Celtic Experience tour  http://www.overthetoptours.com/

Liddy Historical Walking Tours, Dublin   http://www.walkingtours.ie/

Northern Ireland:

Titanic  http://www.history.com/topics/titanic

Giant’s Causeway Myths and Legends http://www.causewaycoastandglens.com/Myths-and-Legend.T884.aspx

Information on Belfast   http://visit-belfast.com/

Information on the murals in Belfast   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murals_in_Northern_Ireland

Antrim Coast and Glens   http://antrimcoastandglensaonb.ccght.org

Please see http://www.riverrunarts.com for a full color pdf  downloadable brochure or contact joanslack@wildblue.net for a brochure

Categories: All posts, Ireland, Prehistoric art | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Rock art and Adventures Around the World

My interest in art and archaeology has been worldwide, and rock art- the images created by the first people in cultures everywhere- was one area of graduate study that deeply intrigued me. I had always been interested in this area of study, but became more intensely focused upon drawing connections and studying the images.

JOM 1st scan 051 JOM 1st scan 054  After seeing the carved stellae depicting such unusual and sophisticated images in Monte Alban, Oaxaca, I began to study rock art images in the United States. Pictographs and petroglyphs abound, particularly in the west and southwest, though they do occur all over the continent. I began by studying the rock art images around the Great Lakes, where I live. I have visited sites, and read many books describing the images and possible meanings. OF course, one thing leads to another, and the prehistoric rock art images from thousands of cultures and time periods began to occupy my research. Lucy Lippard’s book OVERLAY brought a fascinating discourse about art, prehistory and contemporary artists into play, and not only brought fresh ideas to my studies, but also affected my own artwork and exploration of concepts in my work. these are the libraries of prehistoric people, from whom we have all descended. I wanted to know all I could about what they were communicating, and of course, we can never really ascertain that we know the truth for certain.

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My travels took me to Orkney, Scotland, to several World Heritage sites, including Skara Brae, where an entire prehistoric village had been covered for thousands of years and revealed when the sand was blown off in a storm. IT was fascinating to see the way people had lived-not so unlike us today! They even had toilets built into their homes, 5,000 BC. I continued to travel around Ireland, recording the stone carvings and imagery created there during the same era. Certainly sun, moon, and stars were depicted, but the carvings go beyond that realm. Soon I’ll write about the experiences in the cairns, seeing the images as possible trance inducing languages.

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I also studied in and traveled to France, and visited the caves (called grottes in French) where people even longer ago, 30,000 BC, left their hand prints,stories and images on the walls. All of these experiences led to developing tours, acting on my desire to share all I had learned with people. Which leads me to Santa Fe…where the same practice can be seen in many places. On my tour there we will visit Bandelier Monument, where amazing images have been carved, pecked or drawn on stone, and try to understand just what the ancestors were communicating.

Categories: All posts, France, Ireland, Prehistoric art, Santa Fe | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Ireland Adventures : Discovering Archaeology in the Landscape

 

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As I read book after book about the 5-7,000 year old ritual monuments, built from massive stones with capstones weighing 25-100 tons, and the pottery that has been found inside these places, I knew I wanted to see them for myself.  I wanted to trace with my own hand the carvings made by these earliest of artists, and study the designs made on the pottery they created.  I planned a week trip during February, during which I met with Sinead McCartan, an archaeologist at the Ulster Museum in Belfast.  For an entire day, I held, studied and photographed 5,000 years of Irish pottery, made from the Stone Age through the Iron Age.ireland65  Many pieces had been burial urns, holding cremated remains, and often would still have pieces of ornamentation within, such as a carved bone pin or clasp.  Afterward, I traveled throughout several parts of Ireland visiting ancient megalithic sites, such as Newgrange, Loughcrew and Carrowkeel, each one a home to intricate rock art and impressive stone architecture.  While on this trip, I hired a guide by the name of Michael. He is an extremely knowledgeable man who is also a Druid, so in addition to an abundance of site visits and accompanying legends, he also introduced a specifically spiritual point of view about the sites and the people who inhabited them.  The Celts held a belief in “anima loci”- the “spirit of the place”- and everywhere in Ireland this is reflected. It is seen in the naming of wells and places, of assigning gods and goddesses and stories to specific sites, and this sense of acknowledging the spirit of a place is deeply respected. A recent story in County Clare involved a new highway being built, which would have required a “fairy tree” to be cut down.  Local people were reminded by the seanachie  (A wise storykeeper) of the taboo involved, and the highway was rearranged to go around the sacred site. The respect and acknowledgment of the spirits of a place are still very evident in everyday practice, whether Druid or not.  I began to see that a place can be experienced on so many levels and in layers:

-through the intellectual knowledge a person had gained of history, mythology, art, folklore

-through the emotional weight of the stories: the passionate love, brutal killing and maiming,

Whirlpools of waters swallowing up a maiden, or fierce revenge or bravery

-through the spiritual memory of a past occurrence, or the magic that may have happened here

and the acknowledgment of the ways humans have experienced a place on a spiritual level

-through the physical, in how a place exists in time now and has been altered by humans over time

The interest sparked by the trip and new insights led me to find an Archaeology class being offered in Gleancholmcille, County Donegal, called “5,000 years in Stone”.  I felt such gratitude to the University for making the Travel Grant available for this type of research. I began to focus my reading prior to the trip on the area we would be studying, and looked into writing about standing stones and megalithic culture. I knew from the itinerary that we would be moving forward in history also, studying the effects of Christianity on the art of the area, and I soon realized that only a “wholistic” approach would really give true understanding.  In other words, to understand the music and art, one must know the history and politics, the geography, poetry and language, as all are interwoven and part of the whole picture, and learning one aspect alone leads to an isolated piece.  My reading took in novels about Irish life and history, folk traditions and the “old ways”, and Celtic art and ornamentation.  I read the scientific approaches to archeological sites and treasures, and also the writers who are exploring alternative views such as archaeoastronomy and Celtic cosmology.  My library grew larger, and larger!

In August, I flew into Dublin and stayed in Malahide, a coastal town about 20 miles from the city.  Expansive beaches and tidal watching were the perfect way to adjust to the time change and travel stress.  Once settled in, I took to walking to Malahide Village, and toured the castle of the Talbott’s there, which was beautifully kept up and authentic, as people have inhabited it through this century. It has an impressive great hall where banquets are frequently held. A balcony above the dining area holds musicians and entertainers during the meal. A favorite part of the castle tour was seeing the private chambers of the royalty, where one could get a close look at the clothing, toiletries and more personal items, such as a travel case with razor, smelling salts, and bottles of strange looking potions and mixtures. A mannequin in an authentic ermine collared robe, as if the prince were preparing for a royal event, brought the scene to life.   I also made a stop at the local pottery shop, and talked clay with the owner. Ireland is becoming rich in potters, as there is a national program for training new people each year, and there could be problems arising in supply and demand in the near future.

The next morning it was an early bus ride into “An Lar”, the City Center.  My first stop was Trinity College.  Founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1592 on a site confiscated from the Priory of All Hallows, it was the domain of the Protestant Church for centuries.  A free education was offered to Catholics provided they converted to the Protestant faith.  Today more than 70% of the students are Catholic, so times have changed dramatically.  Distinguished alumni of Trinity include Jonathan Swift, Thomas Moore, George Berkelely (who gave his name to the California city), Oscar Wilde, John Millington Synge, and Samuel Beckett.  The grounds cover 40 acres in the heart of Dublin, and it is here that one can view the famous Book of Kells.  It is housed in the Trinity College Library, below the Old Library, which in itself is a sight beyond belief. The room is 213 feet long and 42 feet wide, and holds about 200,000 of the 3 million volumes belonging to the University, all within small alcoves off the main hall, which is truly magnificent with its vaulted ceiling.  Most of the volumes were huge by our standards- some 11/2 to 2 feet tall, and all bound in leather in the old process of bookbinding. As I wandered through, it struck me that the human urge to “record” is so strong…many of these volumes were on display, going far back into the past, with recording of maps and flowers and cures and knowledge of all types.  The sense of our forbears was very present and real in the Old Library, and very humbling.  Below the Library is the Book of Kells exhibit. A beautifully presented pathway leads through rooms explaining the Book and its history, with videotaped documentation of the various processes used by the monks as they created the book. One tape showed the process of hands cracking eggs, mixing pigments and then painting in the calligraphy and artwork.  Another presented ink-making and the actual printing of the gospels with a quill pen, and the sound of the quill on the prepared cowhide seemed to transport you to another time and place. The bookbinding videotape used all of the traditional devices the monks would have used and it was fascinating to appreciate the craftsmanship as well as the beauty of the finished product of  a white leather cover.  After making way through the exhibit, as if entering a church or sacred space, one is led into a darkened room, where in the middle stands an illuminated glass case.  In this is the Book of Kells, generally considered the most striking manuscript ever produced in the Anglo-Saxon world.  The 680 page book of gospels was rebound into four volumes in 1953, two of which are displayed at one time, so only four pages are seen.  I was amazed-to tears- at the beauty and intricacy of the designs and the endeavor itself and what it must have involved in dedication and perseverance. It truly is a masterpiece.

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I next visited the National Museum, where artifacts from 6,000 BC to the present are housed. It was awe-inspiring to be a few feet away from the treasures I had only read about.  St. Patrick’s Bell, the oldest surviving example of Irish metalwork (5th century), sits near a multitude of other intricately decorated treasures such as the Ardagh Chalice, the Tara Brooch and bejewelled shrines to Brigid and others.  One of my favorite pieces is a gold boat, complete with tiny oars and a mast, that was found with several other gold objects in a field, which has led to speculation that this was an offering of some kind. The museum has an exhibit of the Viking invasion and the mark it left upon Irish culture, which was full of interesting information and helped make sense of the changes and developments that occurred as adaptations were made to changed circumstances. For example, the Vikings introduced to Ireland the method of using weights and measures, which changed economics forever there. A replica of a longship and an extensive exhibit of artifacts found around the Dublin settlement was very enlightening, and I must say that it helped me see the Vikings in a kinder light than I had previously!

The following day I spent traveling to Gleancholmcille, the site of Oideas Gael, the school sponsoring the Archaeology class. Located in the most northern county of the Republic of Ireland, it involved two bus trips and long hours, but the scenery was a worthwhile diversion.  Upon arriving in “The Glen” I was delighted with the sheer physical beauty of the place. The village is located in a valley between huge mountains, so north and south hold gorgeous views of mountain peaks.  On the west end of the valley is the Atlantic Ocean, and a long stretch of beach the Irish call a “strand”, with warm enough water for swimming, which I did immediately. Oideas Gael is a small school, but full of people, classes and activity. There was a fiddler’s workshop congruent with our class, and all week the sweet sounds and lively tunes could be heard throughout the village.  Evenings in the pub would find 25 or 30 fiddlers in a “session” of fast-paced music, with a solo ballad singer lending some variety now and then.  The national radio station was there to record the sessions and workshops all week, as the quality and talent brought together is remarkable. The village is in the heart of the “Gaeltacht”, an Irish speaking area where people are fluent in the old language and it is spoken everywhere. As with our own Native American culture, the old language and culture was in danger of being obliterated, and nearly was, but a dedicated movement to revive the language has taken hold and is gaining strength.

The Folk Village was my first stop, as it was right next door to my residence for the week, which I shared with several others from the class. I took an interesting tour of Father McDyer’s restored Irish village, the local priest who had the idea to create this place to help a poor economy. Three small cottages replicate rural life in the 1720’s, 1820’s and 1920’s, and the cottages are surrounded by other interesting restorations, such as a sweat house, used just like a sauna, and a “hedge school”, where Irish children met with a teacher in hiding to carry on knowledge, language and teachings during penal times imposed by the English.  The cottages were full of artifacts and stories, providing a glimpse, again, of how political and religious history affects everything- such as glass at first being a luxury, then with the English invasion, the Irish were taxed on number of windows in a home- so that houses were built to allow light with the least amount of opening- narrow slits that could be covered with a goatskin. At times a horse placenta was used as a window covering, with an “informant” saying “No bayonet would go through it!”, though visually it is quite a thing to ponder.  Most of the interior light came through the doorway, with the traditional “half-door”, where the lower half could keep out animals and the upper half stay open, making a convenient arm rest for conversation or contemplation. Estyn Evans says in his book IRISH FOLK WAYS, relates a countryman describing it thus: “A man standing in the open door would be wasting time, but leaning on the half door he is just passing time”.    Another story told us on the tour concerned a huge metal cauldron in the courtyard.  When the Irish had their land confiscated by the English, and an English landlord took charge, the former landowners were forced to work for the landlord.  With less land to farm, times were lean, and people were starving.  The landlord would have the cauldron filled with a meager, watery soup, and invite his Irish tenants to come with their bowls on one condition: they had to convert from Catholicism to Protestantism. “He took the soup” came to identify those who had converted.  The Folk Village provided a good basic overview of more recent Irish history, and the Archaeology class took us back in time quite a bit further. It began that afternoon.

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