Author Archives: joanslack

I have visited and taken groups of people to Newgrange often, and have never lost my awe for this ancient place. the mysteries still remain about the purpose-for example- it is completely overbuilt, and much, much larger than it needs to be for the inner structure it holds. Why? The rock carvings are stunning, but also mysterious. Volumes have been written about them, trying to decipher this language we can no longer read. This article via Irish Archaeology gives us a glimpse of this magical place through the ages. Enjoy!

Images of Newgrange through the ages

Newgrange photoThe Neolithic  passage tomb at Newgrange is the most visited archaeological site in Ireland. Over 5000 years old it pre-dates the first phase of Stonehenge by 1000 years and the Egyptian pyramids by 400 years. It is a truly massive structure measuring 76 m in diameter by 12 m in height and it contains over 200,000 tonnes of earth and stone in its fabric. Indeed, it’s glistening façade of quartz is one of the country’s most memorable vistas.  However, as the images below attest, Newgrange has not always looked so pristine.

Newgrange Edward Lhywd

1699: This image shows Edward Lhywd’s survey of Newgrange (after Stout & Stout 2008, p. 98, fig. 66). It is the first known plan of the tomb and it was drawn shortly after the entrance into the mound was rediscovered in 1699. Up until that date the entrance had actually been sealed and it was only uncovered again when the local landowner, Charles Campbell,  began quarrying the mound for stones.

Newgrange tumulus1775: A view of  Newgrange from c. 1775 by the noted antiquarian artist Gabriel Beranger. It shows a large mound of earth and stone that is nearly devoid of trees. Although a number of the standing stones which surround the mound are illustrated, the tomb entrance is not visible (it is shown in a separate drawing).

 

Newgrange 18th century1790: This engraving of Newgrange was included in Edward Ledwich’s Antiquities of Ireland, which was published in 1790 (after Stout & Stout 2008, p. 97, fig. 65). The mound is once again shown largely treeless and in this image the passage entrance can be clearly seen. A large triangular stone, which formerly stood directly in front of the entrance is also illustrated.

 

Old photograph Newgrange

1892: A photo of Newgrange taken by George Coffey in 1892 (source). Unlike the earlier, 18th century depictions the mound  is now covered in a thick scrub of trees and bushes.

Old photo newgrange

Late 19th century: This atmospheric shot of the passage tomb entrance shows a man emerging from its dark  interior. It  was taken by R. J. Welch sometime in the late 19th century and it shows an overgrown and partially disturbed mound. Although the roofbox, through which the winter solstice sun rays should pass, is completely blocked, its decorated stone lintel can still be partially discerned c. 1 m above the entrance passageway.

Newgrange entrance

1910: A child standing at the tomb entrance, circa 1910 (source). The area around the doorway has been cleaned up considerably since Welch’s photo and an iron gate now controls access to the passageway. The soil around the beautifully decorated entrance kerbstone has also been dug out and cleared, although the roofbox remains blocked. The photo is from the National Library of Ireland’s Tempest collection.

newgrange

1950s: This photo illustrates the mounds appearance in the 1950’s prior to the start of archaeological excavations at the site in the 1960s (source).

Newgrange tomb

1950s: A close up of the entrance into Newgrange prior to the 1960s excavations and the subsequent restoration work (photo OPW).

newgrange excavation

1967-67: These two image show the archaeological excavation underway at Newgrange (source). This extensive work was carried out between 1962 and 1967 under the expert direction of  Professor M. J. O’Kelly. It revealed a wealth of information about the monuments origins and history. However, by its very nature is saw much of the mound material removed and this had to be reinstated after the archaeological excavation was completed.

Newgrange passage

1967-74: Works on repairing the mound and its surrounds began in earnest in 1967 and were not fully completed until 1974. This image shows the  passageway being reconstructed and reinforced. Professor O’Kelly (second from the right) is pointing towards the roofbox (after Stout & Stout 2008, p. 47, fig. 30) .

Newgrange quartz

1967-74: Probably the greatest change seen during these restoration works was the addition of 3 m high quartz wall to the front of the tomb. This addition to the monument was based on M. J. O’Kelly’s interpretation of the excavation results. He had discovered a thick layer of quartz stones spreading out in front of the tomb kerbstones for a distance of approximately 7 m, which he believed  represented the remains of a collapsed wall.  Thus on his advice a quartz facade was added to the tomb. However, as the quartz wall was deemed too unstable to support the weight of the cairn on its own, a 4 m high, reinforced steel and concrete wall had to be erected behind it. The quartz stones were then embedded into the concrete.

Not surprisingly this striking quartz wall caused much debate at the time and the arguments about its authenticity still rage on.

Further reading

Stout G. & Stout M. 2008. Newgrange. Cork University Press. Cork.

Categories: Ireland | Tags: , , , ,

Sailing on a Viking ship

I thought I would share this article courtesy of Irish Archaeology. Vikings are an interwoven part of Irish history, and this is a fascinating look at sailing one of their ships–today!!

Let’s go a Viking: Sailing on the Sea Stallion of Glendalough

The Sea Stallion of Glendalough (photo Werner Karrasch/Viking Ship Museum)

Alva Mac Gowan recounts her recent voyage on the Sea Stallion of Glendalough, a reconstructed Viking longship

It is the still and silent sea that drowns a man‘- Hávamál

Last month I sailed with a crew of fifty-five in a 30m (100ft) long reconstructed Viking war ship called the Sea Stallion of Glendalough. We travelled north from Roskilde in Denmark, through the famous Sea of Kattegat and up along the western coast of Sweden, a journey which had been made many times before me by my Norse forefathers. You see, my destiny with the Sea Stallion began a millennia ago in my home town of Dublin.

The Sea Stallion is based on a Viking ship known as the Skuldelev 2, which was excavated in 1962 in waters north of Roskilde Harbour. The boat was intentionally sunk along with five other smaller Viking boats as part of a defensive barrier constructed to restrict access to Roskilde, the royal seat of Denmark at the time. However, it had been long suspected that the vessel was built outside of Denmark, due to the style of shipbuilding used. This suspicion was confirmed when, after dendrochronological testing (tree-ring dating), the keel of the ship was found to have been carved from an oak tree which was felled near Dublin in the summer of 1042. At this time Dublin was the largest Viking settlement outside of Scandinavia, so it is not a huge surprise that boats were being built there. However, finding one in a distant Danish port was still intriguing.

Viking ship

In 2004, after four years of work, a life-size reconstruction of the Skuldelev 2 boat was completed by the Roskilde Viking Ship Museum and given the name ‘Havhingsten fra Glendalough‘ or ‘The Sea Stallion from Glendalough’. After a number of trial voyages the Sea Stallion embarked on its most epic journey to date, back to Dublin. In 2007 a full crew of sixty five sailed the 7 week journey; from Roskilde to Norway, then crossing the North Sea to the Orkney Islands and then around the north-west of Scotland to Ireland. I was actually there on the boat’s arrival in Dublin in August 2007, along with 10,000 other people, who crowded the River Liffey’s quays to welcome the ship and its exhausted crew. Apparently it was the largest welcome they had ever received!

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Like all sea vessels without an engine The Sea Stallion relies primarily on the wind. It can be rowed, but this is mainly used for harbour manoeuvres or to turn the boat, rarely to move it across long distances as the crew would be exhausted and in no fit shape for attack when they finally reached dry land. The Vikings would have waited for favourable winds before setting sail, they also would have had to stop off and camp along the route to wait for the winds to change, you can imagine them getting slightly bored, longing to get back to sea, as we did. And what did we do then? We helped repair the boat, cleaned it, went to the local market for supplies and then prepared supper. After all our chores were completed we had a few Danish beers!

Sea Stallion of Glendalough

One of the many reasons I chose to sail on the boat was to gain a greater understanding of the Vikings, not just from an archaeological perspective but also from a social or indeed human one. The sailing was indeed enlightening, once the sheet was raised we would sit back and enjoy the ride, we learned some knots, tacking, we even sang sea shanties, and folk songs whilst clinging to ropes and trimming the ship (moving from one side to the other to balance the boat). If we sailed at night we would huddle together for warmth and comfort. I didn’t sleep so well one night as I was soaked by a wave that washed over me as soon as I put my head down. So, instead I gazed up at the stars which peeped over the sail, bidding farewell to the sunset and waiting to catch the sunrise. This was proper Viking TV in wide screen!

Viking sail

Within a few days the ship had become our home, we were a family, taking care of each other; sometimes our lives depended on each other. I began to feel closer not only to the crew but the people that sailed in these vessels a long time ago. The smells and sounds penetrated my dreams and imagination- when I slept on land I dreamt I was at sea, when I slept on the boat I dreamt I was on land.

Viking ship sleeping

The sounds I remember most were of the waves lapping against the boat, the mast creaking as the sail billowed in the winds, hushed conversations in Danish, some snoring, along with the occasional command reverberating on the sail. Days ran into each other, time passed and I did not care, we just wanted to keep moving, “Where is the wind coming from today?”, or “Where are we sailing to next?”, were probably the questions Søren, the Skipper was asked most. All of these sensations combined brought the Nordic past alive for me and showed how happy we can be without all the comforts of home and trappings of modern consumerism. The conversation was flowing and the ‘hygge‘ (a Danish word for cosiness and conversation) was supplied in abundance.

Viking sleeping

Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t all “plain sailing”, we had rough days where most of the crew were sea sick and rain and waves drenched us all. I have never been so bruised as when I arrived exhausted home to Dublin. My hands were weathered and nails engrained with black tar from the ropes, which took weeks to grow out. But I had rowing muscles, a Danish glow in my cheeks and just completed my most impressive adventure to date- and THAT says a lot!

The Sea Stallion is one of many reconstructed Scandinavian boats housed at the Viking Ship Museum, the latest project ‘The Gislinge  Boat’, which is a replica of a Viking fishing boat, is due to set sail on her maiden voyage in the Autumn. All boats are built at the museum by skilled craftspeople and everything is faithfully researched and replicated from the nails to the sails. The museum is the largest visitor attraction outside of Copenhagen in Denmark.

If you are interested in sailing with the Sea Stallion, even just for one day and would like to visit the Viking Ship Museum, check out their website.

Categories: Ireland

There is still time to get to Ireland this Fall!

 

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We are getting close to the deadline for the Fall tours to Ireland. If you have a longing to follow the Wild Atlantic Way, IMG_0003or follow the northern coastline, now is the time to sign up!

 

 

See all the details here:

 

Wild Atlantic Way Art Tour October 8-15, 2015     Ireland tour October 20-31 2015 Brochure

Ballycarbery (14)

Storm at finians Bay and Ballinskelligs (21)

Categories: Ireland

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